This podcast series is excerpted from a two-day class called “Building Science Fundamentals” taught by Dr. Joe Lstiburek and Dr. John Straube, of Building Science Corporation.
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This podcast series is excerpted from a two-day class called “Building Science Fundamentals” taught by Dr. Joe Lstiburek and Dr. John Straube, of Building Science Corporation.
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Tweet ThisMoney Merge Accounts are being touted all over as the way to eliminate all your debt, including your mortgage debt in just a few years.
Now that the mortgage scams have all blown up, the scamsters are focusing their energies in a different area targeting people who are desiring to pay down the debt they have. The accounts couple the deposit of the the participants whole paycheck into the account and apply the entire sum to the mortgage. Normal living expenses are then paid out of the home equity line building the balance back up.
The theory is that the mortgage balance is paid down much quicker by the larger paycheck sized deposits saving thousand if not hundreds of thousands in interest. The problem is that the institutions that specialize n theses setups have large fees associated with them and they can be risky if you do not manage them properly.
For a more in-depth explanation of the risks and details of how these works, you will find no better source than Searchlight Crusade.
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The decision to install a solar powers system is necessarily open to a great deal of work on your part to determine the economic feasibility and payback period. There is no doubt that a photovoltaic system is quickly becoming a viable method of generating a relatively significant percentage of your power demand. However, the capital costs of such a system are themselves, not insignificant.
In many states there are tax credits and incentives, both public and private to defray the cost. Tracking them down can be difficult. There are a few tools now available to help you do some intial analysis of the costs and benefits in order to establish a preliminary basis for you to advance your search for the answer. One is the Petersen Dean Solar Calculator.
The Petersen Dean Calculator (click the button below to access) factors in location, electric rates and most importantly, know Federal and State incentives and grants to derive a payback, internal rate of return and the impact to home value. to present a rather detailed consideration for you to start from.
Beware still, you need to do plenty more homework in order to make a well-informed decision. There will be many other places for you to investigate and some leg-work to confirm that some of the assumptions in the calculator (Availability of incentives and grants) are still valid. For a free download on evaluating a solar installation for your home see the “Downloads” page. The downloads are free to registered users. You may register on the downloads page or in the “Admin” widget box in the sidebar to the right.
Some may even be interested in building their own solar system. It is becoming more feasible with leaps in the technology. For more information of a technical nature on Photovoltaics see “The Energy Blog“.
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Tweet ThisThe Aleutia E2 is a small form factor Pocket Desktop PC that runs on a 5 VDC power supply and weighs just over a pound. Capable of running Linux and Windows XP, the systems is a perfect, small, lightweight devise perfect for websurfing and e-mail. It will also cut power consumption over a traditional desktop by about 85%.
You can get more information here.
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Tweet ThisThe prevalence of Radon Gas in the soils in areas around the United States is an issue of growing concern. Radon has been deemed the number 1 cause of lung cancer in non-smokers in a study done at the University of Iowa. Radon gas is found in varying levels in almost all regions of the country.
Radon Risk In Your County
Radon Map Zone areas in pink pose the highest risk followed by Orange and Yellow. Click here to check the specific Radon risk level in your county.
Radon Zone Map
Areas in red have the highest potential exposure, Orange second and Yellow, the lowest potential, but all araas in the US can have isolated pockets of varying exposure. The EPA recommends that all homes should be tested. If your home building project is in an area of higher risk, you should plan early to install a Radon Mitigation System. In many areas now, a test is required with each real-estate transaction regarding residential properties and this will probably expand to include most of the higher risk areas. In any event, your health is well worth the small investment to install such a system.
Active And Passive Radon Venting Systems
This video explains one method of actively venting through the garage of an existing home:
So you will want to have the slab penetration in an area that is readily accessible and has electric available to power the fan. There is a new option called Form-A-Drain, which is a PVC system that functions as a concrete form, hydrostatic water drain and radon venting system all in one.
Many times the fan is located in the attic, particularly if your foundation is slab-on-grade or crawl space. Also remember that you will want to make sure that the vent through the roof does not allow water to fall down the pipe to the slab below, this would not be a good thing for several reasons.
Designing and installing the infrastructure for a passive system can be accomplished for about $250 to $350 in a typical new home. This will save you 400-500% of the cost of retrofitting. An active system will add $450-$750 depending on the size of your hew home.
Download an 84 page guide on the design and construction of Radon Mitigation Systems. It is free for registered users of the site. Enter your e-mail address in the “Enews and Updates” box in the top right hand column to register. We do not share your address with anyone outside of DIY Green Home Improvement or Archeon, Inc. Once you have registered, go to the download page and download your copy of “Design Radon Out”.
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Tweet ThisThe key factors to understand when judging the expected performance of a window or door are:
- Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC)
- Visible Light Transmission (Vt)
- U-Value (U-Value)
These are the standards by which most test protocols evaluate glazing from.
Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) -- is the measure of relative heat gain (compared to a piece of 1/8″ thick clear glass) that a particular piece of glass will absorb under exposure to the sun. Reducing the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) is a function of either tinting the glass and making it darker or coating the glass with low-emissivity coatings to reflect the amount of infrared spectrum most responsible for heating that the glass absorbs.
Visible Light Transmission (Vt) -- is a measure of the amount of total visible light that will pass through the glass, again relative to a piece of 1/8″ thick clear glass. Adding low-emissivity coatings coatings to glass will affect the Visible Light Transmission (Vt) factor pretty dramatically depending on the specific glass manufacturer’s method of coating.
U-Value (U-Value) -- is a calculated measure designed to represent the ability of the assembly (both pieces of glass, the air space, the frame components, etc.) to resist the transmission of cold and heat through them. This is a composite value of all the components and is not a relative measure. The lower the U-Value, the better able the assembly is capable to resist the passage of heat and cold. U-Value is the inverse of R-Value in measuring the same physical characteristics and thus the higher the R-Value, the better able to resist the passage of heat and cold.
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HVAC Equipment
Summertime is upon us. If you are like me, you would be hard pressed to deal with a breakdown in your HVAC system. Late spring and early summer should find you doing preventative maintenance to avoid problems.
The first place to start are the evaporator coil fins in your compressor. Make sure the fins are clear of bugs, leaves and lawn mowing debris. Clogged fins will reduce the efficiency of the unit and reduce its working life. Be very careful when cleaning the fins. Do not bend them and uses a compatible tool of a soft brush to brush out the debris. You may use standard dish washing detergent to clean the fins.
Do not use any other cleaners, the chemicals can cause the fins to corrode, reducing their efficiency. Once the fins have been cleaned, rinse the fins with your hose and inspect them closely for excess corrosion. If the condition of the fins concern you, it would be a wise investment to have the unit checked out by a professional HVAC contractor. If you have bent fins, track down a fin tool to straighten them out. You use to be able to get them from Sears Industrial Tools 800/776-8666.
They can verify the functioning of the system electrical systems and test the freon levels. If the freon is low, it may indicate a leak and if the unit is over 10 years old, a leak, in all likelihood means replacing the unit.
If your compressor is an older model, your manufacturer may recommend that you lubricate the bearings. You should check the manual that came with your unit (if you still have it) or contact the help line for the manufacturer and ask for their advice in this regard they
Somewhere near the compressor on the outside, you may see a PVC pipe that just appears to be open to the air. This is probably the condensate drain from the air-handler closet into the house. Make sure this pipe is free of anything that can clog the opening. If you see algae growing on it at the opening, you may have a clog that you need to clear out. Many times, using a coat hanger pushed into the pipe a short distance and using a stirring motion will clear any clog.
Moving on to the air-handler, replace the filter and while you have it out, check the coils for accumulated dust and dirt. If you see an accumulation on them, gently brush them with a soft brush and vacuum out the excess. When this is done, inspect the drain pan underneath (if here is one) or check to see if there is a leak where the PVC condensate drain enters the air handler. If you see a leak here, you need to inspect the case or the pan to make sure it has not corroded around the entry to the pipe.
In most newer homes, they have configured the drain so that you can see down into it to check for algae or mold. If you have such a setup, pour about 1/4 cup of bleach down the pipe. Do not pour any other chemicals into he pipe. Once you have put the bleach in the pipe, pour an equal amount of water down the condensate pipe.
Replace the recommended filter and that should be good. Do not attempt to open the panel that encloses the electrical system, call a professional HVAC contractor instead if you think there is any problem with the electrical. You could be severely injured or killed. There is a capacitor inside, that stores a charge, even if you disconnect the power at the panel so be safe.
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Icynene Sprayed Foam Insulation
One of the important considerations in the the design and construction of your new home is considering the insulation system and its impact on other systems in the home. There are a few different forms of insulation, the more common ones:
- Fiberglass Batt
- Recycled Denim
- Blown Cellulose
- Blown Icynene
Green Aspects Of Sprayed Icynene Foam Insulation
Each has different benefits and features and we are going to concentrate here on Blown Icynene. Icynene is a chemical, sprayed in a water base, that adheres to most anything that it touches like glue and also quickly expands to a volume around 100 times the sprayed liquid. The chemicals are considered safe and non-toxic. Because the chemicals are non-toxic and the superior insulating qualities of the system, it clearly supports green building objectives. while it is not a typical DIY project due to the very specialized and expensive equipment required to install the product, it is well worth your consideration in either your new home, or now, as a retrofit in your attic. There are vendors now that sell the systems in pressurized tanks that make a DIY project feasible. One such vendor is Tiger Foam.
They tout a rather unique approach to using a hybrid of Icynene and fiberglass batt to give a reduced cost method of insulating with the installation of a R-13 layer of fiberglass batt over a 1″ layer of Icynene which seals the cavity against air-infiltration while the fiberglass offers. I have not been able to fnd any figures on what the savings may be or if this alternative is not as energy efficient as an all foam cavity. You will have to investigate this yourself. Here is a video:
Traditional Icynene Installation
Icynene rises, much like bread dough, to fill the void completely, fill in around concealed pipes and wires, seal all air cracks and provide a solid air barrier and excellent insulator. The material itself is somewhat like styrofoam in its properties. The net result is a quiet, air leak free wall assembly that can make your home more comfortable, quiter and more energy efficient. The reduced air infiltration makes a very significant difference in the energy efficiency of the home.
This video explains the process and many of the benefits:
Other Benefits Of Icynene Sprayed Foam Insulation
Some of the other benefits that you will get with Icynene that you will not get with fiberglass are:
- reduced dust infiltration (better if you have allergies).
- Superior insulation and sound deadening of the underneath of floors.
- Elimination of cracks though which insects can enter.
- Higher energy savings.
The major downside is cost. The installed cost of Icynene is about 3 times that of fiberglass batt. In general though, the increased energy efficiency will pay this back in about 4-5 years. This is especially true if you you live in Energy Star zones 2 or 3 and have your HVAC unit in the attic and insulate the bottom of the roof deck. If you do this, your installed HVAC plant can be sized smaller and work more efficiently to heat and cool your house.
Reduced Loads On HVAC Systems
It is becoming quite common now to insulate the bottom of the roof deck. That means the space in which your HVAC system resides, that previously that would get to 140-150 degrees in the summer, is now 80-90 degrees. This means the HVAC unit works less often and will last longer.
R-Value
While Icynene in and of itself, does not enhance R-Value over other forms of insulation. It’s real benefit lies in the reduction of air infiltration, which is responsible for up to 40% of the heat gain or loss in a home.
93% of conductive heat flow is already stopped by R-13 insulation. Upgrading from R-13 to R-40 reduces conductive heat flow by only another 5%. (Source: U.S. Department of Energy).
Icynene® delivers ideal R-value and air-sealing in one step, helping you address the most significant source of energy loss so you can take energy performance beyond R-value.
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Tweet ThisAnyone can have issues with water accumulating in low spots in your yard. In years where conditions are extraordinarily wet, this can lead to real serious problems and damages from flooding to structures and more expensive landscaping or pools and driveways. if you notice a problem in a give year, you may be well advised to address it before the problem can compound itself. French Drains can be a simple, effective DIY solution to these problems.
Additionally, if you have a sloping lot, the water running across the surface (particularly unsodded surfaces) can cause erosion problems. The solution is to provide a controlled channel (French Drain) for the movement of the water to a retention area for safe and slow absorption back into the ground or draining it along a designated path towards retention beyond your property. You need to be extra careful not to take your runoff and dump it uncontrolled onto you neighbors property as this will only cause you bigger problems.
French Drain Profile
A French Drain is a channel for water to drain away in to a specific spot under controlled conditions. This can be as simple as a trench filled with crushed gravel or stone. But the force of water moving through the crushed stone can cause the fines of the soil to filter into the open spaces around the gravel diminishing the effectiveness of the drain over time. It is better to construct a stage 3 French Drain that will have both a perforated pipe buried in the trench and a fabric to separate the soil fines from the gravel maintaining the effective flow of the water through the drain.
Perforated drains are easy to install and not very expensive. Your largest expense will be the excavation and restoration of the excavated area. If you have had draining water damage the area, this is an expense you were going to incur anyway so it pays to install measure to prevent a recurrence.
First you need to understand how the water flows across the property. If you are not clear about this or it is not easily apparent, do not hesitate to call a professional civil engineer for advice. This may even be a requirement (some jurisdictions require French Drain systems be permitted and be designed by an Engineer). A small investment with an Engineer may save you big headaches later.
Once you determine the slope of the lot and where the water is emanating as a source, you need to determine where you want to direct it to. This could be down to the street, it could be down to a sloping hill that directs the water to safe retainage and in some instances you may even need to install either above ground retainage or underground storage to store the water until it can percolate into the ground naturally or to be pumped to another location.
French Drain Storage Tank
Once you have your plan, determine how big a trench you need – this will depend on the amount of water you want to handle. If you see the gross amount of accumulation that occurred when you had the problem and can guesstimate the width by the length x the depth of the water, it will give you a rough estimate of the amount of water (cubic foot wise) that you have to be able to accommodate. Depending on the planned slope of the trench (suggest a minimum or 1/4″ per foot) you will get an idea of the width, and depth of the French Drain trench and the size and number of perforated pipe you need to put in it. Again, if any of this seems unintuitive to you, call on a Civil Engineer. They may save you from over designing or under designing the system. It is important to verify that the drain is sloping towards your intended direction. Check it with a level as you proceed to dig your trech and as you lay down the stone bed on the bottom of the trench. Verify the slope on the perforated pipe as a final check before laying on the top layer of stone.
The basic components of the system are:
- Perforated HDPE Pipe (perforation sizes and patterns vary).
- Crushed Stone or Gravel (pit run).
- Landscaping Fabric.
Perforated Drain Pipe
Crushed Stone
Landscape Fabric
You may find it easier to rent a light backhoe to dig the trench or possibly a Ditch Witch. Most Importantly, CALL YOUR LOCAL UTILITIES BEFORE YOU DIG – it is the law in most states and it could even save your life. Once you have gathered your materials, laid out the path, located the underground utilites, you are ready to build your French Drain go. Once last bit of advice, wait till the dry season or you will have a royal mess on your hands.
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